Our Journal
A Margaret River experience – Taste of Cullen Wines
14th March, 2013
Plump Cabernet grapes, ripening on sun-soaked vines, blue skies soaring over Eucalyptus trees, a full moon rising on the Diana Madeline fruit pick and a crisp, blue wave, curling towards ragged cliffs and a windswept shore. On 14 March, 60 guests of the Western Australian Government were greeted, in the opulent surrounds of Australia House, by images from the 2012 Margaret River grape harvest. The reason? To embark upon an imagined journey to the warm climes of Western Australia and sample some cellar favourites from Cullen Wines.
Emma Cullen (niece of winemaker Vanya and granddaughter of Cullen Wines’ founders) hosted the event in conjunction with the Agent General of Western Australia, Kevin Skipworth. Guests included the Australian High Commissioner, Mike Rann, Deputy High Commissioner, Andrew Todd and Agent General of Queensland, Ken Smith, as well as WA ex-pats, winos and enthusiasts.
Six wines, including the Margaret River Red and White blends, Mangan Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon and Malbec/Merlot/Petit Verdot, as well as the Kevin John Chardonnay and Diana Madeline Cabernet/Merlot were tasted in a focused line-up, complemented by an assortment of flavoursome cheeses. The crowd sipped and chatted, Mr Skipworth entertained everyone with the story of Margaret River’s beginnings as a wine region, and Emma revealed some of her family’s wine-growing philosophy.
Cullen Wines was founded by Kevin and Di Cullen in 1971, and was one of the first wineries to be established in the Margaret River region. Since 2008, the vineyard and winery have been certified biodynamic, giving the wines distinctive personality and reflecting their individual vineyard sites. In recent years, Cullen Wines has also become carbon neutral and naturally powered, in keeping with the family’s philosophy of quality, integrity and sustainability. Vanya Cullen has won a number of awards for her winemaking and commitment to the environment including Qantas/The Wine Magazine Winemaker of the Year in 2000, Drinks Business ‘Woman of the Year’ in 2008 and ‘Green Personality of the Year’ in 2011.
In outlining the impact of biodynamics on the quality of Cullen’s wines, Emma said, ‘Biodynamics enhances the voice of the land in the glass. The Mangan Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon is the perfect example, a wonderful amalgam of white flowers, citrus fruit and focussed minerality, purely reflecting the vineyard’s mineral laden soils and proximity to the sea.’
During the evening, guests were handed samples of chamomile, yarrow flowers and dandelion, which are used in biodynamic preparations on the vineyard. ‘Yarrow flowers strengthen the vines against insect attack, while dandelion can increase flowering and chamomile stimulates healthy microbes in the soil for nitrogen fixing,’ said Emma, ‘Basically, it all goes towards increasing the soil’s fertility and making the vines healthier.’
The evening concluded with a taste of the coveted 2010 Diana Madeline, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend, named in honour of Di Cullen who first made this style in the 1980s. In reviewing the 2010 Diana Madeline, Tyson Stelzer said, ‘It’s such seamless coherence, you’d never know it was a blend. Diana would be proud.’