Best known for its award winning, lusciously sweet Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos and ‘Mylitta’ botrytised wines, Dobogó also makes a dry white from the versatile Furmint variety that deserves more attention. The wine is extraordinarily expressive, fruit driven and balanced and represents superb value for money. Founded in 1869 in the centre of Tokaj, Dobogó is now owned by Izabella Zwack and her family.
The Zwacks were originally from Hungary and gained fame for creating Unicum, the nation’s favourite liqueur. After a period abroad during the Communist regime, they returned to Hungary in the late 20th century. Aware of the potential for still and sweet wines in the north-eastern region of Tokaj, the family invested in Dobogó on their return. Izabella has spent time working alongside Vanya Cullen in the Margaret River and this influence is seen in the purity of the Dobogó wines. The vineyards are farmed using organic methods, with shot spur pruning to restrict yields and planted with the local Furmint, Harslevelu and Muscat Lunel varieties. The 28 different vineyard sites, including the 30 year old Betsek and Palota vineyards, are situated around the villages of Mad and Tallya and are all classified ‘First Growth’. The soils are of volcanic origin.