Axel Pauly

Mosel, mosel Germany

Axel Pauly is one of the dynamic young stars of German wine. He took over the Pauly estate from his father after having done vintages in California, New Zealand and other parts of Germany. Most of the nine hectare estate is situated in the village of Lieser in the heart of the Mosel Valley, with the exception of a small parcel in neighbouring Bernkastel. Fittingly, the label features the Mosel hills which, when turned on their side, reveals the ‘Tres Naris’ (or ‘three noses’) of Axel, his father and his grandfather.

The grey and blue slate soils of Lieser are cooler than the red slate in Bernkastel, which results in more minerally wines than those from its more famous neighbour. The Pauly vines cling to steeply sloping, vertigo-inducing vineyards, where Axel uses crop thinning, leaf plucking and grape selection at harvest to ensure a ripeness of flavour in the fruit that he preserves through to the final wine.

From the quaffable and dry ‘Tres Naris’ and the pristine and steely ‘Purist’, through to the traditional medium-dry ‘Generations’, the stunning quality and great purity of the Pauly range is enhanced by Axel’s approach in the winery. Wild yeasts are used until they begin to struggle towards the end of fermentation, at which stage Axel introduces cultured yeasts to preserve the expression of the vineyard’s character in the wines. The fruit for his two single-vineyard Mosel Rieslings is sourced from the steep slope of Niederberg-Helden top site. While the more delicate ‘Lieserer Niederberg-Helden’ off-dry Kabinett is charmful and lively, the dry ‘Helden’, whose name means ‘Heroes’, is sophisticated and elegant with wonderful concentration.


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