By Farr

Victoria, victoria Australia

From their base in Geelong, around 80 kilometres southwest of Melbourne, Gary Farr and his son Nick make small quantities of single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that rank with Australia’s best. Gary has been making wine since the early 1980s in both Australia (at Bannockburn) and Burgundy (for 10 vintages at Domaine Dujac). Not only following in his father’s footsteps, Nick has carved out a reputation all his own and was named Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine in 2020.

By Farr’s Chardonnays reflect the care they take in making balanced, elegant wines. The Geelong Chardonnay comes from the Sangreal site, first planted in 1994. The ‘GC’ Chardonnay is from the densely planted Côte Vineyard (7,000 vines per hectare), where diversity of aspect and soil types (including a mixture of loam, limestone and black volcanic soils) provide different styles to use as blending components. In the cellar, whole-bunch pressing, natural, cool fermentation and judicious use of oak provide elegance and complexity. Their Viognier comes from a blend of fruit across two vineyard sites, with time spent on skins and barrel fermentation creating a rich, perfumed wine.

The Shiraz is co-fermented with a small percentage of Viognier for added depth on the nose and palate. All the fruit for the Pinot Noirs is hand-picked, with a high percentage of whole-bunch fermentation to lift the aromas and give a lovely grainy tannin structure on the palate. The Sangreal vineyard’s red soil over limestone is unique in the estate, and this site is home to Pinot Noir vines that the Farrs believe have mutated since they were planted 20 years ago, to adapt to their own microclimate. Although lying just 300 metres from Sangreal, the differing conditions of the Farrside vineyard mean that it is harvested 10 to 12 days later. The rows of vines at Farrside run east to west to shade the fruit from overexposure. The clones are a mixture of the Bernard clones from Dijon (114, 115, 777 and 667) and Australia’s own MV6. The soils at Farrside and Tout Près are mostly black volcanic with heavy amounts of limestone on the surface. Tout Près is a densely planted (7,300 vines per hectare) hillside site that produces the most intense wine of the four Pinot Noirs. It is also, due to its density and low yields, three times more expensive to farm than Sangreal. The ‘RP’ Pinot Noir is a tribute to Gary’s wife and Nick’s mum, Robyn Pamela. It is a beautifully perfumed wine, made from fruit sourced from the Côte Vineyard. The ‘Tout Près’ and ‘sangreal’ Pinot Noirs are fermented in wood and aged in Allier oak barrels, while ‘Farrside’ and ‘RP’ are vinified in stainless steel before ageing in wood (also Allier).

 

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