Dreissigacker

Rheinhessen, rheinhessen Germany

Jochen Dreissigacker has 21 hectares of vineyards in the Rheinhessen, 55% of which are Riesling. From the 2010 vintage, Jochen's wines are all certified organic. He describes his transformation to organic viticulture as “the artisan path to purity”. He reduced the yields in the vineyard by creating a much healthier soil which in turn was lower in vigour. “The path to any truly great wine is to limit the amount of grapes that are allowed to ripen”, says Jochen.

As expected of an organic estate, his approach in the cellar is as natural as possible, using only wild yeasts to ferment the must and harvesting only fully ripe grapes. His wines – with the exception of the Auslese, of course – are fermented to full dryness. The felicitous position of his vineyards, the low yields and his determination to pick when the grapes are ripe ensures full flavour and obviates the need to leave residual sugar in the wine to balance unripe flavours.

The Organic Estate Riesling is ripe, clean, scented and zesty, it offers outstanding value. The Bechtheimer Riesling, a selection from his best vineyards within the village of Bechtheim, is fuller, richer and more complex, but similarly bone dry. The 'Geyersberg' Riesling Trocken is from his best vineyard, and shows greater intensity than the Bechtheim. The 'Morstein' Rheinhessen Riesling is macerated on skins before fermentation in a mixture of stainless steel and 1,200 litre oak barrels. Lean and elegant with citrus aromas, a steely minerality and lively acidity. Drinking well now, it also has fantastic ageing potential.

The Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is fermented and aged in oak. It is de-stemmed, goes through a short cold soak to extract colour and, following fermentation in large old oak, is aged for two years in small barrels, one third of which are new. It is scented, supple and lively, a wonderfully pure Pinot Noir from this outstanding producer.

Jochen’s Auslese are superb, particularly the Geyersberg. The wine was fermented and aged solely in stainless steel to preserve the botrytis-affected Riesling character. Such wines, with their unique combination of richness, acidity and low alcohol (7.5%) make them among the best in the world to sip at the end of the meal.

 

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