Fontodi Filetta di Lamole

Tuscany, tuscany Italy

The Manetti family has owned Fontodi since 1968 but has been in Chianti for centuries, producing the finest terracotta at their factory in Ferrone. The same attention to detail on their terracotta has been brought to bear on Fontodi over the past 50 years, transforming a crumbling farmhouse with a few hectares of vineyard into one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive estates.

Giovanni Manetti has run the property since 1980 and ensures the wines are as meticulously made as the vineyards and cellar are both immaculately tended. Giovanni’s 90 hectares of vineyard, 90% of which are Sangiovese, are situated in the prime ‘conca d‘oro’ (golden shell) of Panzano, giving wines of supreme elegance, intensity and longevity. The south-facing vineyards and natural amphitheatre allow the grapes to ripen fully, while the altitude ensures cool nights for good acidity retention and lovely aromatics. Soils here allow for excellent drainage, encouraging the vines to reach deep with their roots. Giovanni has converted to organic viticulture and is now following biodynamic principles to obtain the best quality fruit.

In the winery, his approach is similarly non-interventionist (very low toast oak, for example) to ensure that the quality of the fruit is preserved in the finished wine. Giovanni’s Chianti Classico always shows great depth and intensity, while maintaining balance. The ‘Vigna del Sorbo’ Gran Selezione is intensely concentrated. Previously containing a small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, in 2012 Giovanni decided the Sangiovese needed no further supplement. ‘Flaccianello’, made with the estate’s best Sangiovese, is fast becoming one of Italy’s most sought-after wines. It is powerful, fleshy and ages beautifully. The ‘Dino’ is made with 100% Sangiovese and remains for 12 months on its skins without sulphites in orci (amphorae) made at the Manetti terracotta factory. The orci rest in the cellar at the ambient temperature of 14°C and 80% humidity, perfect conditions for a very slow evolution. Giovanni now uses amphorae to vinify a small percentage of all his red wines, including his Sauvignon Blanc, ‘Meriggio’. The Vin Santo is voluptuous and nutty, as beautifully made as their outstanding olive oils. Following years of work on quality olive oil production, Giovanni Manetti have released a new monovarietal olive oil to enhance the quality of Corregiolo.

Filetta di Lamole

Lamole is a forgotten corner of Chianti, situated high above Panzano. A few parcels of old Sangiovese, some alberello (bush-trained) as they always were in Lamole, survived the replanting decimation of the early 1970s. It is from these old vines, planted in the 1920s, that Fontodi’s Giovanni Manetti took cuttings to propagate his own clones and replant his vineyards at Fontodi. It is partly from these clones that Fontodi’s quality and intensity is derived.

Giovanni long harboured the dream of making a wine from Lamole, as he regards it as one of the most distinctive zones in Chianti. The sandy soils and high altitude (620 metres above sea level) lead to cool nights and extended growing season, enhancing the wine’s aromatics. He convinced a cousin to work with him on seven hectares of vineyard at a property called Filetta. Together they restored the vineyard to health, and by 2014 were ready to pick their first grapes.

Because the wines are lighter, Giovanni ages them in large oak, in contrast to the barriques he uses at Fontodi. Made solely from Sangiovese, it has a Pinot Noir-like clarity in both the glass and on the nose. It has a lifted, dark cherry fragrance yielding to intense yet elegant fruit on the palate, all supported by fine, grainy tannins.


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