Anhydrous, `Saint Nikolas` Mandilaria Mavrotragano

Originally founded in 2012 as Avantis Santorini, this dynamic Greek winery was renamed Anhydrous for the 2021 vintage. Anhydrous means ‘without water’ and references the brutal growing conditions on this beautiful island. This change was instigated by winemaker Apostolos Mountrichas, who craved a new challenge and reinvention. Hence, Anhydrous came to be. Today Apostolos' winemaking philosophy is deeply rooted in experimenting with ancient techniques to produce modern wines that exhibit a sense of place.

Within the space of a decade, Apostolos has transformed Anhydrous into one of Santorini’s premier producers. He rents one hectare of vines and work with growers who farm an additional 40 hectares. They grow primarily Assyrtiko, ungrafted and trained in the traditional koulkoura (basket-shaped) system. This fabled native grape is supplemented with the indigenous varieties Athiri and Aidani, especially in his base wine ‘Santorini’. The island's average annual rainfall is about 550 millimetres, but only 37mm falls in the five months from May to September. The average yield from the poor volcanic soils is three tonnes per hectare, resulting in small quantities of exceptional fruit which translates to just 40,000 bottles per year. In the winery, Apostolos ferments with indigenous yeasts using large traditional Afoura casks, clay amphorae, stainless steel tanks and cement eggs.

The base wine, ‘Santorini’, is made from 90% Assyrtiko leavened with a blend of Athiri and Aidani, all fermented and aged in stainless steel to give a crisp, vibrant, steely wine. `Afoura` is their premium Santorini expression, sourced from the village of Pyrgos ( which Apostolos regards as “the island’s premier cru”) and aged for 12 months in traditional Afoura barrels. It has an extra dimension compared to the ‘Santorini’, with a lovely texture alongside toasted nuts and citrus peel notes on the palate.

`Icon` is, as one might expect from the name, Anhydrous’ signature wine. Sourced from 60-year-old vines grown in Pyrgos, it is fermented and aged for nine months in concrete tanks. Tasting it is “like being caressed by an electrified silk handkerchief” according to Peter Pharos in the Santorini Assyrtiko 2022 Report on Tim Atkin's website. Awarded the title of `Other Santorini wine of the Year` in Tim Atkin's 2023 report, across the orange, rosé, and red wines category, ‘St Nikolas’ is the latest addition to the Anhydrous range. This blend of old ungrafted Mavrotragano and Mandilaria has been praised as one of the finest expressions of its kind.

The electric nature of these wines results from a unique combination of low yields and achieving full ripeness, yet still having a pH of only 2.9. They deserve all the attention they are getting from wine lovers in search of something different.