Bodega Lanzaga, `Tabuérniga` Rioja

In the early 1990s, Telmo Rodríguez left his family estate in Rioja to make a name for himself elsewhere. Having explored off-the-beaten-track Spain, studied winemaking in Bordeaux and worked in the vineyards of Burgundy and the Rhône, he returned home with a new perspective. He and his friend Pablo Eguzkiza founded Bodega Lanzaga in 1998 with the aim to shine a spotlight on Rioja’s remarkable villages and vineyards and to make wines with a sense of place.

Though Telmo’s approach was considered a rebellion and went against the regulations of the Consejo Regulador, he insists that it was not a break with Rioja tradition, but rather a return to the village focus that it had in the 17th century. Telmo’s break with the constraints of the Consejo Regulador is reflected in the labels of both the ‘LZ’ and ‘Lanzaga’. Much to his distaste, he was told by the Consejo that the village name ‘Lanciego’ could not be used on the labels. Defiantly, he drew a black line across the village name rather than remove it altogether.

Today, Bodega Lanzaga has 25 hectares of vineyards around the villages of Lanciego and Labastida. The 40 plots are farmed organically and biodynamically, with fruit trees planted among the vines to encourage biodiversity.

‘LZ’, their ‘regional wine’ in Burgundian terms, is made from Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha sourced from vineyards close to the Lanzaga winery in Lanciego. After fermentation with indigenous yeasts, it spends around seven months in cement tanks before bottling. The absence of oak preserves the brightness of fruit which is complemented by perfectly managed tannins. The village wine, ‘Lanzaga’, is sourced from multiple plots totalling 20 hectares around Lanciego. Aged in oak of varying sizes (up to 25hl) for around 14 months, it is a rich and complex, yet elegant wine that captures the essence of Lanciego.

Telmo and Pablo have identified exceptional sites to create a range of single-vineyard Riojas, their equivalent of 1er Crus. ‘El Velado’ and ‘La Estrada’ are both just north of Lanciego in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria mountains at around 600 metres above sea level. This elevation combined with low-yielding bush vines over 80 years old results in wines with remarkable intensity and finesse. ‘Tabuérniga’ is further west towards Labastida and neighbours the acclaimed ‘Las Beatas’ vineyard. Old bush vine Tempranillo and Graciano on limestone clay soils here produce a more muscular wine, with brooding black fruit flavours and chalky tannins.

Bodega Lanzaga’s Grand Cru vineyard is ‘Las Beatas’, a remarkable amphitheatre-esque site at 600 metres above sea level near Labastida. This wine frequently ranks among Spain’s finest, vindicating Pedro and Telmo’s decision to establish Bodega Lanzaga almost 30 years ago.

Telmo’s approach to site-specific winemaking is something that distinguishes Bodega Lanzaga as one of Rioja's most exciting producers. They have redefined Rioja and act as a beacon to other producers wishing to break free of the constraints of the Consejo Regulador.