Owned by brothers Yves and Hugues Ricome for over 30 years, Domaine La Croix Gratiot covers 35 hectares in Montagnac. After years of selling to the local co-operative, Yves started bottling his own wine in 2005, buying his brother’s share of the domaine in 2009. His daughter Anaïs, who worked in New Zealand with Matt Thomson, is now in charge. She makes wonderfully pure, unoaked wines reflecting the potential of the local varieties.

Since 1996, the vineyards have been restructured and planted to varieties best suited to the soil and microclimate. They are currently under organic conversion. The Picpoul is grown on a chalky plateau, where maritime breezes help to cool the climate and provide ideal conditions for developing the variety’s aromatic compounds and lively acidity. The Picpoul de Pinet is expressive with pure stone fruit on the palate. Anaïs also makes a premium Picpoul de Pinet, ‘Bréchallune’, from selected vine parcels, fermented in ceramic amphorae and aged on its lees after fermentation to add texture and complexity. The ‘Désir Blanc’ is a harmonious blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. It has perfumed aromatics of bright stone fruit, a refreshing acidity and a long finish.

Unusually for this part of Southern France, the domaine produces an excellent Pinot Noir, ‘Les Zazous’. It is aromatic and elegant with notes of rose and violet, red cherries and a hint of spice. Made from 100% Syrah, the ‘Rouge Cerise’ undergoes a short maceration to produce a fresh wine with fragrant, pure red fruit.