Domaine Chevrot, Santenay Blanc 1er Cru `Clos Rousseau`

Situated just 10 kilometres south of Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet, Maranges has been gaining attention for its wines' increasing quality and affordability. Domaine Chevrot came recommended by Jane Eyre, who worked with them when she first arrived in Burgundy from Melbourne. Based in the heart of Maranges, the certified organic domaine is run by brothers Pablo and Vincent, who took over from their parents in 2007 after gaining experience in Bordeaux and Central Otago. They follow the principles of regenerative viticulture on their 19-hectare estate and have introduced horse-drawn ploughing (for less compacted soil) alongside larger barrels to refine the style of the wines. These excellent changes have helped establish Domaine Chevrot as one of Maranges’ leading producers, being awarded two stars in the La Revue du Vin de France’s 2024 guide to the best French wines.

The brothers constantly look to improve their approach in the vineyards and the cellar. Due to Vincent being allergic, the Domaine Chevrot wines don’t receive SO2 treatment until bottling, resulting in under 50 mg/l for red wines and under 60 mg/l for whites. This requires scrupulous hygiene in the winery and Domaine Chevrot are a pilot research winery for the BIVB’s (Burgundy Wine Board) program on combatting the spread of Brettanomyces in Burgundian cellars.

The Maranges Villages Blanc is sourced from vines grown on granite and gravel soils on the lower slopes by the La Cosanne stream. The resulting wine, aged in a combination of 228-litre fûts and larger oak foudres, is defined by notes of yellow peach and bergamot. The Maranges 1er Cru ‘La Fussière’ Blanc is sourced from a remarkable vineyard, previously abandoned in the post-war year’s due to its vertiginously steep gradient. Pablo was drawn to its “almost Champagne-like” chalky soils that remained untouched by the intensive chemical agriculture of the 1960s. The nuances of this site contribute to the wine’s impressive depth, clean fruit, fresh acidity, and long finish. The brothers also have two hectares of vines on the Maranges side of Santenay. The Santenay 1er Cru ‘Clos Rousseau’ Blanc is made from fruit grown on limestone soils and aged using 20% new oak. The resulting wine balances freshness and a slightly honeyed side with ripe stone fruit flavours, great depth, and a long finish.

Domaine Chevrot’s red wines have a depth of flavour seldom found in Maranges. The Maranges ‘Sur le Chêne’ Rouge comes from a three-hectare ‘lieu-dit’ purchased by Pablo and Vincent’s grandfather. 30% whole-bunch in the ferment creates perfumed, red-fruit aromatics, alongside gentle tannins, and crunchy acidity. The Maranges 1er Cru ‘La Fussière’ Rouge, aged for 18 months in oak, is deeper in colour than the villages wine, with rich but delicate aromas of dark fruits, fine tannins and a powerful yet elegant finish.