Dominio do Bibei, `Lalume` White Ribeiro

Founded in 2001 by Javier Dominguez, Dominio do Bibei are “pioneers of Ribeira Sacra” (Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate) and among those credited with driving the modern, quality revolution in this historic, Spanish region.

Dominio do Bibei’s vines are grown at varying elevations of 200-700 metres above sea level, scattered across a large, north-facing hillside with schist and granite soils, flecked with slate, quartz, and iron. Vines have been cultivated in Ribeira Sacra for centuries, having first been planted by the Romans, before the devastation of phylloxera and civil war drove local families to leave the region and begin new, easier lives elsewhere.

In the late 1990s, Javier came to the region attracted by its old vines and untouched, Jurassic landscape. His family purchased land in Quiroga-Bibei, Ribeira’s most easterly sub-region, and currently owns a 140-hectare estate, of which 45 hectares are planted with vines. Javier has since worked tirelessly to revive the region and its indigenous vines, undertaking what is known locally as ‘heroic viticulture’.

Today, he is joined by a small team of talented winemakers, producing some of Ribeira Sacra’s most esteemed wines. The winery is gravity-fed, and the winemaking philosophy is centred around gentle fruit handling, vinifying plots separately, indigenous yeast fermentation and ageing in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, foudres and old 600-litre barrels. Aside from working with their estate vineyards, Dominio do Bibei also source grapes from neighbouring vineyards, provided they do not face south; producing vibrant fruit with good levels of natural acidity is key to the estate’s gastronomic style of wine.

Plots are vinified separately, with each variety prized for the character it brings to the final blend. Although Mencía is the estate’s main grape variety, they also have other local grapes like Mouratón, Brancellao, Alicante Bouschet and Caíño planted in their vineyards. For the whites, Godello and Albariño dominate, with small amounts of Doña Blanca, Treixadura and Torrontés sometimes included in the blends.

Dominio do Bibei make four cuvées whose names begin with the letter ‘L’. ‘Lalama’ is a fragrant red (predominantly Mencía) with redcurrant and balsamic notes. It is precise and delicate and always overdelivers. ‘Lacima’ is a blend of Mencía, Brancellao, Mouratón and Sousón from the peak of the hillside. It displays a vivid, black cherry character with a fine tannin structure. Two elegant white wines are also produced. ‘Lalume’ is a charming, barrel-fermented Treixadura with remarkable balance and poise. ‘Lapola’, primarily Godello, blended with Albariño, Doña Blanca and Treixadura, has a flinty, mineral profile with great tension and depth of flavour.