Domaine de la Bégude, Thyrsus IGP

Domaine de la Bégude is one of the oldest and most emblematic wine estates in Bandol. Once a stopover for pilgrims in the Middle Ages seeking shelter and sustenance (‘beguda’ means ‘the place to drink’ in Provençal), this Bandol estate had been abandoned when Guillaume Tari, of Château Giscours in Margaux, purchased it in 1996 and restored it to its former glory. Guillaume replanted the 45-hectares of steep terraced vineyard predominantly with Mourvèdre, creating the world’s largest clonal collection of this iconic variety that forms the backbone of all Bandol, now totalling over 150 clones.

Guillaume also oversaw the conversion to sustainable viticulture. The domaine has been certified organic since 2008 and is Demeter certified biodynamic from the 2023 vintage. A combination of clay-limestone soils, high elevation (at 410 metres above sea level, it is the highest estate in the whole of Bandol) and sea breezes moderates the intense Provençal sunshine and brings freshness to the final wines. Guillaume recently sold the estate to the Roulleau family, owners of Château Dauzac in Margaux, who share Guillaume’s vision for the domaine and its wines.

The grapes are all harvested manually, sorted twice, destemmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The Bandol appellation requires red wines to be sourced from vines with a minimum of eight years of age, contain at least 50% Mourvèdre and undergo 18 months of oak ageing. The ‘Cadet’ rouge and rosé are an equal blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault sourced from the youngest vines at the estate, with an average age of 10 years. As a result, these wines are classified as ‘IGP Méditerranée’ but are still just as expressive of the unique sense of place of this estate.

The Bandol rosé is aged for a period on fine lees to add further complexity and freshness, which balances the higher percentage of Mourvèdre in the blend. The Bandol ‘Thyrsus’ is a 100% Mourvèdre, fermented and aged for six months in amphorae and bottled without sulphur. The resulting wine displays layers of pure black fruit punctuated by notes of thyme and cinnamon and supported by firm tannins.

The Bandol Rouge is a blend of 90% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache, aged for 20 months in a combination of 600-litre demi-muids and 300 and 400-litre used oak foudres. Its structured palate is balanced by concentrated red and black fruit with lifted notes of violet and garrigue and a persistent finish – this is Bandol at its best!