Domaine Desvignes, Givry Blanc `En Chenèves`

Based in Givry, Domaine Desvignes was established in 1870 and has cellars dating back to the 17th century. Gautier Desvignes is the fifth generation of his family to run the domaine, having taken over in 2016. He represents a new generation of winemakers in Burgundy who have honed their craft in other regions and countries, bringing new ideas to their family domaines. Having previously worked in Oregon, Gautier is now establishing Domaine Desvignes as one of the leading producers in Givry. To quote William Kelley of The Wine Advocate, “The young Gautier Desvignes continues his rapid ascent at this 11-hectare Givry estate… Elegant, sumptuous reds and bright, chiselled whites are the order of the day”.

Like many producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Desvignes used to sell their fruit to big négociants in the Côte d’Or. Historically, their Pinot Noir clones were selected for quantity over quality. Before agreeing to take over from his father, Gautier insisted that the domaine be replanted with Pinot Fin clones, which produce lower yields of small berries, resulting in concentrated, high-quality fruit. Sustainability is also a key part of Gautier’s philosophy. He has proven that by investing energy into the vineyard, avoiding chemicals and adapting vinification to best express the grape variety and site, Givry can produce precise, elegant wines rather than the ‘rustic’ and tannic style it was previously known for.

Although white wines represent just under 20% of Givry’s production, they are gaining popularity thanks to their quality and affordability. Gautier produces a Givry Village Blanc ‘En Chenèves’, which is fermented and aged in used 400-litre barrels to better integrate the oak. The result is a rounded wine defined by stone fruit character and lively acidity (a hallmark of the clay-limestone soils to the south of the Givry appellation).

The Givry village ‘Champ La Dame’ is 100% destemmed and aged for 12 months in oak, offering a seriously smart Givry with great freshness and crunchy fruit character. The 1er Cru ‘Les Ozymandias’ is Gautier’s ode to his daughter, born in 2022, and takes its name from a Percy Bysshe Shelley poem. It blends fruit from two small 1er Cru plots (‘Le Vernoy’ and ‘Crémillons’) and has the linear precision that runs through all the Domaine Desvignes wines. Gauthier’s 1er Cru ‘Clos Charlé’ is from a parcel towards the north of Givry planted on soils rich in iron oxide, ideally suited to Pinot Noir. It produces very expressive wines with great depth of flavour.