Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune `Clos Bortier`

Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard has been run by Caroline Lestimé, Jean-Noël’s daughter, since 1989. Their 12.5 hectares of vineyards have been certified organic since 2014 and are also farmed using biodynamic principles. Most of Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard’s vineyards are in the heart of Chassagne, although they own one vineyard, ‘Clos Bortier’, in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. Planted in 2015, this site is just above Saint-Aubin and produces particularly sought-after wines.

In the best sense of the phrase, Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard create ‘low intervention’ wines, each expressing its site's nuanced character. Their wines are defined by a touch of reduction, creating a lovely ‘struck match’ character alongside intense crystalline fruit that unfurls on the palate. Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard utilises whole-bunch pressing in their winemaking and ferment in oak, a maximum of 30% of which is new, with a very light toast. Their wines then age for about 18 months in oak before bottling and display a lovely purity of fruit due to the low toast of the oak. These expressive wines reward patience and blossom with extended ageing in bottle.

Though a ‘villages’ wine, the Chassagne Montrachet ‘Les Chaumes’ hails from a vineyard bordering prime 1er Cru ‘La Boudriotte’. As a result, it offers an expression that is very much superior to ‘villages’ standard, with Puligny-like acid on the finish that cuts through intense fruit on the palate. 1er Cru ‘La Boudriotte’ itself is as rich and silky as the ‘Les Chaumes’ is tight and racy. Sourced from 28-year-old vines planted on clay soil, the palate is rounded with a supple texture and a perfume of white flowers that lingers long on the finish. The 1er Cru ‘Les Caillerets’ offers an even greater step up. Though more closed on the nose, a hint of flint gives way to a wine of superb class and balance. It will undoubtedly reward patience and develop further complexity with extended ageing. Made in tiny quantities, the Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is also exceptional, with a lovely grainy, nutty fruit character that seems to last forever.

Historically, Chassagne was well known for its reds. This is due to the higher presence of red clay topsoil in its vineyards, ideally suited to Pinot Noir. The Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Cuvée L’Estimée’ Rouge, does this history justice with a pretty nose, great structure on the palate, balanced fruit intensity and good length.

The Crémant de Bourgogne ‘Grand Lys’ is a Blanc de Noirs, made from 100% Pinot Noir, sourced from the ‘Clos Bortier’ site in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. Aged for three years on its lees with a low dosage, this is a sparkling wine that embraces Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard’s signature richness and complexity. The domain also produces a Crémant de Bourgogne rosé: the ‘Lys’ Rosé. The Pinot Noir for this cuvee is sourced from the limestone marl slopes overlooking the village of Saint-Aubin. Made using the ‘saignée’ method, the final wine is aged on its lees for 12 months and displays vibrant acidity alongside delicate redcurrant and wild strawberry notes.