Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Chablis 1er Cru `Vaillons`

Daniel-Etienne Defaix is the 14th generation to run the Defaix family estate, which is believed to be the oldest in Chablis, with a history dating back to 1610. Daniel-Etienne took over from his father in 1978 and started making wine “as (his) grandfather had done”. This involved keeping the wine in tank for lengthy periods and putting it through monthly bâtonnage, a practice he still retains.

“My grandfather’s generation used to keep the wine for so long in order to protect themselves against frost, to ensure they would always have wine to sell,” he explains. This approach ensures Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix can consistently offer an excellent selection of mature Chablis.

The domaine has just over 28 hectares of vines, almost all of which are around the village of Milly, on the left bank of the Serein. Daniel-Etienne has 14 hectares in Chablis and another 14 across the 1er Crus. Grapes from his younger vines, which account for about half the crop, are sold directly to négociants at harvest. Aside from a small holding in Blanchots, the whole crop is machine-harvested so he can pick when the grapes are perfectly ripe. As a result, harvest never lasts longer than a week.

Daniel-Etienne ferments his wines in tanks with indigenous yeasts, and all of the wines go through malolactic fermentation. His 1er Crus are aged in tank for at least four years, undergoing a monthly bâtonnage. “The fine lees break up during bâtonnage and release glycerine, which acts as an antioxidant,” explains Daniel-Etienne. Instead of being bottled immediately, the wines are kept in tank to retain freshness.

The ’Vieilles Vignes’ is an excellent introduction to Daniel-Etienne’s style and is the product of low-yielding 45 to 50-year-old vines aged for 12 months on lees with monthly bâtonnage. 1er Cru ‘Les Lys’ is a deep gold colour, with an evolved character on the nose. The wine has good depth and texture on the palate with excellent acidity, which creates its superb length. ‘Les Lys’ is at the top of the ‘Vaillons’ 1er Cru and was owned by the French monarchy at one point, hence the name ‘Lys’, given its association with the royal family. ‘Les Lys’ can also be sold as ‘Vaillons’, but Defaix gives this great vineyard an identity in its own right.