Fèlsina Berardenga, `Rancia` Chianti Classico Riserva

Fèlsina, in the commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, epitomises the bold, powerful style of southern Chianti, making wines stylistically more akin to Montalcino than those of fellow Chianti producers, Fontodi or Isole e Olena.

Giuseppe Mazzocolin ran the 470-hectare estate from the end of the 1970s until 2011. He is now less involved in the day-to-day management, while consultant oenologist Franco Bernabei heads up the winemaking team. Fèlsina’s reputation is defined by its exemplary vineyards and quality-focused winemaking, resulting in wines that are “incredibly distinctive archetypes of Castelnuovo Berardenga” (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com)

The barrel-fermented Chardonnay ‘I Sistri’ is made from 60% free-run juice and combines a ripe, buttery nose with a touch of tropical fruit on the palate, while maintaining a fresh finish. The Fèlsina Chianti Classico is fresh and vibrant with remarkable elegance. The Chianti Classico Riserva has an impressive structure. It is fleshy and powerful with bright acidity, evident but supple tannins and a lovely minerality that carries through to a long finish. ‘Rancia’ comprises a six-hectare Sangiovese vineyard planted on sandstone, chalk and galestro soils. The resulting wine is aged for 12– 18 months in oak, creating a concentrated yet elegant expression with black and red berry fruit and a fine character.

The ‘Fontalloro’ is made solely from Sangiovese from three vineyards, two of which sit just outside the Classico border. It has a powerful structure and an excellent concentration of tannins. The Gran Selezione ‘Colonia’ is made from a Sangiovese vineyard that was replanted in 1993 after many years of hard work on this difficult but rewarding site. Aged for 30 months in French oak and only produced in very small quantities, it displays a unique complexity and intensity which justifies its position at the apex of premium Chianti Classico wines.