Fontodi, Bianco

Though the Manetti family has owned Fontodi since 1968, they have lived in Chianti for centuries, producing some of Italy’s finest terracotta at their factory in Ferrone. The same attention to detail afforded to their terracotta has been reflected at Fontodi over the past 50 years, transforming a crumbling farmhouse with a few hectares of vineyard into one of Chianti Classico’s most impressive estates.

Giovanni Manetti has run the property since 1980 and ensures the wines are as meticulously made, with the vineyards and cellar immaculately tended. Giovanni’s 107 hectares of vineyard, 90% of which are Sangiovese, are planted in Panzano's prime ‘conca d‘oro’ (golden shell), creating wines of supreme elegance, intensity and longevity. The south-facing vineyards and natural amphitheatre allow grapes to ripen fully, while the high elevations ensure cool nights, resulting in good acidity retention and lovely aromatics. Soils here allow for excellent drainage, encouraging the vines to reach deep into the earth with their roots. Giovanni has converted to organic viticulture and follows biodynamic principles to obtain the best quality fruit.

In the winery, Giovanni’s approach is similarly non-interventionist. For example, he utilises very low toast oak to ensure the quality of fruit is preserved in the finished wine. The ‘Dino’ is made with 100% Sangiovese and remains for 12 months on its skins without sulphites in orci (amphorae) made at the Manetti terracotta factory. The orci rest in the cellar at the ambient temperature of 14°C and 80% humidity, perfect conditions for a slow evolution. Giovanni now uses amphorae to vinify a small percentage of all his red wines as well as his Sauvignon Blanc, ‘Meriggio’. Fontodi Bianco is made only with Trebbiano grapes from the oldest vineyards of Fontodi, with more than 50 years old. Giovanni’s Chianti Classico always shows great depth and intensity while maintaining balance. The ‘Vigna del Sorbo’ Gran Selezione is intensely concentrated. Previously containing a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, in 2012 Giovanni decided the Sangiovese needed no further supplement. The ‘Flaccianello’, made from the estate’s best Sangiovese, is one of Italy’s most sought-after wines. It is powerful, fleshy and ages beautifully. The ‘Terrazze San Leolino’ Gran Selezione, is produced from a five-hectare terraced single vineyard. Here, the limestone soil creates a wine with great vibrancy and freshness, differing in style from the ‘Vigna del Sorbo’.

The Vin Santo is voluptuous and nutty, as beautifully made as their outstanding olive oils. Following years of work on quality olive oil production, Giovanni Manetti has released a new monovarietal olive oil to enhance the quality of Correggiolo.