Finca Sandoval, `Aurora`

Finca Sandoval was founded in 1998 by El Mundo editor and wine columnist Víctor de la Serna. His early influence brought this winery and the overlooked region of Manchuela to the attention of worldwide critics. Today, the estate is led by local businessman and wine enthusiast, Angel Garcia-Cordero and talented Valencian winemaker Javi Revert, who has been at the helm since 2019. Born and raised in a grape-growing family, Javi is described by Luis Guitierrez (The Wine Advocate, 2024) as “one of the most exciting young growers in the Mediterranean zone of Spain.” He brings a wealth of ambition and talent to Finca Sandoval, creating exciting, innovative wines that evidence why Manchuela deserves our attention.

Finca Sandoval farm 26 hectares of organically certified vineyards, planted between 700-1,000 metres above sea level on the slopes of the Cuenca mountains. The region, once known for its saffron production, was largely abandoned in the mid-20th century as workers fled agricultural work for the big cities. Producers like Finca Sandoval have been fundamental to its revival. The soils here are mainly sandy limestone, and Finca Sandoval’s oldest vineyards are planted to the region’s heritage varieties Bobal, Monastrell and Garnacha. Javi Revert’s commitment to celebrating the region’s Bobal grape is reflected in their recent acquisition of several venerable vineyards planted with gnarly and ungrafted Bobal vines dating back to the 1930s and 40s. They also have Syrah vines, from cuttings taken from Château de Beaucastel over 25 years ago.

Finca Sandoval’s winemaking philosophy has evolved under Javi, who has embraced indigenous yeasts, whole bunch fermentations and limited the influence of new oak. There are four red wines in the range. ‘Salia’ and ‘Fundamentalista’ are blends based around Bobal and Syrah, while ‘La Rosa’ and ‘Finca Sandoval’ are two single plot wines of each variety, distinctive wines that exude freshness.

‘Fundamentalista’ is a field blend centred around 50% Bobal co-fermented with at least four other red and white varieties. No oak is used, with the 1,000-litre amphorae contributing to an aromatic and expressive palate of wild red fruit, dried herbs and a hint of black olive. ‘Salia’ blends Syrah with Bobal and a touch of Touriga Nacional, co-fermented and aged for 12 months in old, large oak barrels and foudres. The wine has wonderful depth and freshness, with spicy notes and velvety tannins.

The estate’s signature wine, ‘Finca Sandoval’, is predominantly Syrah sourced from select limestone-rich plots. Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate) describes it as “one of the purest expressions of Syrah in Spain”. The ‘La Rosa, made from 100% Bobal’, is only produced in exceptional years, is made from the estate’s highest vineyard planted in 1939. The age of the vines, combined with the stony soils, inhibits Bobal’s natural vigour, revealing the very best of this variety. Aged in 2,500 litre French oak barrels for 14 months, this characterful wine embodies the essence of the Mediterranean. Fresh and herbaceous, with a savoury undertone, it boasts a precision and vibrancy rarely found in this part of Spain.

While the estate focuses on red wines, they also produce a remarkable white wine. ‘Aurora’, that celebrates lesser-known local varieties, including Albilla Manchego, Amrisancho, Tortosí and Trepadell, co-fermented in a mixture of large, old oak barrels and amphorae.