Gunderloch, `Jean Baptiste` Riesling Kabinett

Gunderloch are one of the Rheinhessen’s most respected producers, known for their complex Rieslings derived from the distinctive, red soils of Roter Hang. Though the estate has over 130 years of history, including a pivotal role in the founding of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), its reputation has been shaped by a willingness to adapt in pursuit of continued quality. As sixth-generation winemaker Johannes Hasselbach explains, “this is an old estate with a long history, but we have to evolve because when nature changes, so do the wines”.

Gunderloch own 24 hectares of vines, most of which are concentrated in Roter Hang (the red hillside), which stretches from Nackenheim in the north to Nierstein in the south. The area, which overlooks the Rhine, takes its name from the distinctive iron-rich red soils formed over 280 million years ago. This combination of red slate, clay and limestone lends a distinctive character and complex minerality to the Riesling grown there. Their Roter Hang vineyards include several Grosses Gewächs shared with producers such as Weingut Keller, including ‘Rothenberg’, ‘Hipping’ and ‘Pettenthal’.

Since taking over from his parents in 2016, Johannes has developed Gunderloch’s viticultural practices, achieving organic certification in 2022. Johannes has put significant focus on improving soil health. The vineyards are now low-tilled with native cover crops planted between rows, and solar-powered drones are used to apply biodynamic tea preparations without compacting the earth. In the solar-powered winery, Johannes takes a low-intervention approach to enhance site expression. The ‘pied de cuve’ is cultivated in both the vineyard and cellar, and skin maceration is utilised, with ageing in old oak and cement eggs (particularly on the Grosses Gewächs wines), to bring out the natural phenolics of the fruit.

The ‘Jean Baptiste’ Kabinett Riesling is a blend of the ‘Hipping’ and ‘Pettenthal’ Grosses Gewächs, fermented and aged in stainless steel. Described by Johannes as telling ‘the wonderful story of our wine estate’, it is off-dry with notes of apricots, orange peel, lime flowers and a steely minerality. The ‘Roter Hang’ Riesling undergoes 24-48 hours of skin contact before fermentation, which takes place in a combination of used, 600L-1200L oak barrels and 1200L cement eggs. This results in a broad, intensely flavoured palate with notes of wild herbs, fennel and lemon pith, and a long, saline finish. The finest example of Gunderloch’s style can be found in their ‘Pettenthal’ Grosses Gewächs Riesling. Undergoing 48 hours of skin contact before fermentation, in a 1200L used oak barrel, it ages for nine months on lees without bâttonage. This is a smoky and saline wine that speaks to its site, with a complex palate layered with notes of wild herbs, yellow fruit, citrus and white flowers.