Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin `La Princée`

Founded in 1973 with just eight hectares of vines, Domaine Hubert Lamy now comprises 18.5 hectares planted predominately with Chardonnay (80%) in Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. The domaine is celebrated for its precise, intense and highly sought-after wines.

In 1995, Hubert’s son Olivier took over the domaine and implemented several changes. The most significant of these was the introduction of high-density plantings across the vineyards (often three times that of their neighbours), which Olivier believes results in the best possible expression of each site. He also practises ‘la lutte raisonnée’ in the domaine’s vineyards, adhering to organic practices and spraying only when necessary.

Domaine Hubert Lamy’s cellar has three levels, meaning they can adopt gravity-flow winemaking and minimise the need for pumping which can stress the wines. The white wines are fermented in French oak barrels (300 and 600 litres) and left on their fine lees, without bâtonnage or sulphur dioxide, until they are racked. Olivier has also reduced the use of new oak on the domaine’s white wines over the years, and now only uses barrels ranging in age from one to five years old.

The Bourgogne ‘Les Chataigners’ is sourced from a steep, cool, limestone vineyard Meursault and Saint Aubin which is always harvested last. It has impressive concentration for a Bourgogne-level wine, with bracing acidity and fragrant lemony fruit. The Saint-Aubin ‘La Princée’, made from 10 different parcels across the appellation, has notes of lime and tangerine complemented by a linear acidity and a delightful savouriness on the finish. The Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Clos du Meix’ comes from a 0.7-hectare walled parcel, resulting in a wine that is rich and rounded, partly due to the warmer microclimate in this ‘Clos’. The Chassagne-Montrachets balance the signature fleshy opulence of this famed village with Olivier’s lifted and precise style. 1er Cru ‘Les Macherelles’ is a stone’s throw from Grand Cru ‘Le Montrachet’ and has similarly impressive intensity of flavour.

Domaine Hubert Lamy’s Pinot Noirs are fermented in cement vats before ageing in French oak barrels (20% new) for 18 months. The Santenay Rouge ‘Clos des Hâtes’ boasts a medley of berry fruits and supple tannins on the palate, which Olivier attributes to zero SO₂ additions during élevage.