Mount Horrocks, `Watervale` Clare Valley Riesling

Mount Horrocks Wines, in Clare Valley, is owned by winemaker Stephanie Toole, who purchased the estate in 1993 after a career selling fine wines in Perth. By April 1998, she had renovated the historic Auburn Railway station as her cellar door, and by 2000, she had acquired land in Watervale to plant vineyards. These include the 'Cordon Cut' vineyard, close to the cellar door, which has been planted only with Riesling. The 'Alexander' vineyard at Watervale is planted with just Shiraz, while the ‘Watervale’ vineyard boasts Riesling, SemiIIon, Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grape varieties are carefully matched to each site's soil and microclimate. With this level of care and attention to detail, it is unsurprising that Stephanie’s wines are now regarded as among Clare Valley’s finest. To quote James Halliday’s 2023 Wine Companion, “Stephanie Toole has never deviated from the pursuit of excellence in the vineyard and winery. The attention to detail and refusal to cut corners are obvious in all her wines.”

Mount Horrocks are now ‘A grade certified’ organic and biodynamic, one of only two wineries locally to do so. As all fruit is hand-picked and gently handled, fining is unnecessary, meaning all the wines are suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Having overseen the regeneration of the land, Stephanie believes this involves more than certification; it requires a different way of thinking. Classic, no-compromise winemaking combined with a fully integrated organic and biodynamic approach to growing and making sets Mount Horrocks Wines apart from the status quo.

Stephanie’s wines are designed with food in mind, emphasising structure and generous fruit flavours. She restricts production to no more than 2,500 cases each year to achieve her aims of quality and single-vineyard expression. Each release from Stephanie seems to eclipse the quality standard set by the previous vintage. The 'Watervale' Riesling is a regional classic. The Semillon is barrel fermented and simply exquisite, while the 'Cordon Cut' Riesling ranks among Australia's best sweet wines. Stephanie's Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are ethereal, elegant expressions from Clare and get better every year. Stephanie decided to make a Nero d'Avola after falling for the variety on a trip to Sicily. Hand-picked at full ripeness, it is a bright and lively wine, with medium weight and bursting with muscular fruit.