Loimer, `Steinmassl` Erste Lage Kamptal Riesling

Fred Loimer is a pioneering figure in Austrian wine. After taking over his family estate in 1997, he slowly began experimenting with biodynamic farming, becoming certified in 2006. His love of the natural world permeates everything he does at Loimer, leading him to become a founding member of ‘Respekt-BIODYN’, a community that implements and upholds biodynamics in European viticulture. In 2025, he launched a regenerative farming forum at the estate, inviting friends, colleagues and neighbours to engage in meaningful discussion about the future of agriculture. Unlike many Austrian producers, who prize a sweeter style, Fred obtains full ripeness in the vineyard before fermenting fully dry. Combined with his meticulous farming, this results in vibrant wines with an innate sense of place that display Fred’s trademark citrus zest, minerality and balance on the palate.

The Loimer estate vineyards are planted around the small town of Langenlois, in the cool, yet sunny Kamptal region northwest of Vienna. Divided into 100 parcels, comprising seven main soil types, Loimer’s 85 hectares of vineyards provide a range of complexities to their wines. Meanwhile, their high elevation and south/south-east facing aspects encourage the development of aromatic compounds in the grapes. These Langenlois vineyards are influenced by cool northerly winds and a high diurnal range, which help preserve the freshness and aromatic intensity of the white grape varieties. Fred also cultivates vines in Gumpoldskirchen, within the historic wine-growing area of Thermenregion, just south of Vienna. Gumpoldskirchen benefits from warm air rolling in from the Pannonian plain, allowing black grape varieties (primarily used in his sparkling wines) to ripen consistently and develop elegant perfumes.

The grapes for Loimer's two regional wines are handpicked from vineyards aged up to 50 years old. Aromatic and crisp, the Kamptal Grüner Veltliner and Kamptal Riesling offer excellent value and lively varietal character. Loimer’s single vineyard (Erste Lage) wines are certified both organic and biodynamic and ranked among the best in Austria, hailing from top sites in Langenlois. The ‘Ried Loiserberg’ Grüner Veltliner and Riesling blend is shaped by its origin. Co-fermented in large old oak barrels, the fruit is sourced from a vineyard planted at 380m above sea level, with each variety matched to a specific soil type. The ‘Ried Käferberg’ Grüner Veltliner hails from a warm, sheltered site with ancient crystalline, gravel and sandstone soils and is a ripe, radiant example of Grüner Veltliner. The ‘Ried Steinmassl’ Riesling is distinctly mineral and delicate, with the vineyard sitting at 340 metres above sea level on schist, granite and stony clay.

Fred Loimer is also famed for his premium, traditional-method sparkling wines. Each is riddled by hand, on the ‘pupitres’ racks which line the winding 19th-century brick tunnels underneath the estate. According to Fred, time and precision in the winery are just as important as fruit quality to produce a great sparkling wine, which should always encompass complexity, depth and freshness.

The Extra Brut Reserve, made using 30% reserve wines, was aged on its lees in bottle for a minimum of 19 months before disgorgement, resulting in aromas of golden apple and lemon cake. The bone-dry palate is supported by vibrant citrus peel and toasted brioche, complemented by subtle minerality and crisp acidity. The Brut Rosé Reserve blends Zweigelt, Pinot Noir and St. Laurent and ages for at least 24 months on its lees before disgorgement. Made using 35% reserve wines, the palate is mouth-filling and structured, with notes of fresh strawberry, cherry and a complex finish defined by nougat, hazelnut and pastry.