David Moret, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru `Les Combettes`

David Moret is a talented micro-négociant based in a small cellar in Beaune. With no family-owned vines, David struck out alone in the late 1980s, securing a bank loan to buy his first barrels and fruit from respected growers. Since then, he has continued to buy small parcels of grapes from around eight top growers, predominantly in the ‘Côte des Blancs’ triangle of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, with select parcels from some lesser-known villages that offer exceptional value. David’s whites are all oak-fermented and defined by his signature toastiness, which is perfectly balanced by the vibrant fruit character of his wines.

David closely controls his growers’ vineyard management throughout the growing season and determines harvest dates himself. He also buys whole bunches rather than juice, allowing him to sort the fruit upon arrival at the winery. He has recently invested in an optical grape sorting machine to ensure that only pristine fruit makes it into his wines. All of David’s whites, from his Aligoté to his Corton-Charlemagne, are made following the same winemaking philosophy: gentle pressing to yield a very clear must, followed by fermentation and malolactic fermentation in lightly toasted Allier oak fûts, then 12 -18 months ageing on fine lees in these same barrels, with the percentage of new oak used varying, depending on the wine and the vintage.

The ‘Le Grand A’ Aligoté is sourced from 65-year-old vines in Bouzeron and is fermented and aged for eight months in French oak and stainless-steel vats, resulting in a broadly textured, concentrated wine balanced by excellent acidity. The Saint-Romain, from some of the highest elevation vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, is lean, mineral and elegant, with refreshing lime aromas.

The Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Vieilles Vignes’ is made from 60 to 70-year-old vines and boasts notes of white stone fruits, toasted hazelnuts and hints of honeysuckle. David’s Puligny-Montrachet is linear and precise, with the classic lemony lift of this village; by contrast, his two village-level Meursaults express the richness and generosity for which this neighbouring village is famed. ‘Sous La Velle’, a Liberty Wines exclusive, hails from a lieu-dit just below the village, whereas ‘Les Narvaux’ is located higher up the slope, right above prime 1er Cru ‘Les Genevrières’.

David’s Meursault 1er Crus are an interesting case study in achieving a sense of place. The 1er Cru ‘Blagny’, from a parcel located at the top of the slope and on the border with Puligny-Montrachet, is remarkably fresh with great minerality and tension on the palate. By contrast, the 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes’, is richer and more structured with a riper fruit character, yet all balanced by racy acidity. The Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, sourced from a parcel on the Aloxe-Corton side of this hallowed hill, wears its 40% new oak well and has a lovely balance of oak, acid and freshness.