Pieropan, `Calvarino` Soave Classico

Pieropan is a name synonymous with the finest examples of Soave. The family have produced wines here since the 1880s and have always been pioneers: they were the first producer to label their wines as Soave in the 1930s and to bottle single-vineyard wines in the 1970s; the first to embrace screwcap closures in 2005; and have recently built a state-of-the-art sustainable winery.

When Nino Pieropan passed away in 2018, his two sons took over the running the estate. Dario is at the winemaking helm and Andrea manages the 80 hectares of certified-organic vineyards planted on the stony hillsides of Soave Classico (60 hectares) and Valpolicella (20 hectares).

The Soave Classico has a richness and zest that is extremely attractive. It is scented and beautifully defined, with hints of honeysuckle and almond on the finish. Pieropan are famed for their two single-vineyard wines. The ‘Calvarino’ vineyard, planted by the family in 1901, is on the classic volcanic basalt of Soave Classico, while the ‘La Rocca’ vineyard is planted on the only limestone outcrop in the zone. The former is unoaked and mineral, reminiscent of good Chablis, while the latter, fermented in a combination of 2500-litre oak casks and stainless steel, is rich and opulent. The ‘Collezione Vini dell’Anima’, which translates as ‘wines of the soul’, are special bottlings of ‘Calvarino’ and ‘La Rocca’ from the 2015 vintage, aged for over 10 years before release.

Pinot Iskra is an experimental white grape variety, developed from research into Pinot Bianco to be especially disease resistant and more environmentally friendly as it requires less vineyard treatments. A parcel has been planted above the new Pieropan winery and is thriving. Unoaked, it is aged for 15 months on its fine lees, resulting in an expressive and textured wine with vibrant aromas of green apple, citrus peel and subtle herbal notes.

While renowned for their white wines, the Pieropan family also produce exceptional Valpolicella and Amarone from their vineyards in the Val d‘Illasi (to the west of Soave Classico), which they bought in 1999. Thanks to the vineyards’ elevation of 400 metres above sea level, the wines produced here have a particularly ethereal character. Their ‘Ruberpan’ Valpolicella Superiore is fresh, scented and attractive, while their ‘Vigna Garzon’ Amarone is similarly elegant and perfumed.

‘Le Colombare’ Recioto di Soave is made by picking ripe, healthy grapes and allowing them to dry naturally for approximately five months. This causes them to dehydrate, concentrating their flavours and allowing some botrytis to develop. The resulting wine has an intense gold, almost amber colour and boasts aromas of dried apricots and lightly toasted almonds, it perfectly balances a delicate sweetness with a vibrant acidity.