Champagne Pierre Péters, `L'Esprit` Cuvée Millésimée Blancs de Blancs

Pierre Péters is one of Champagne’s most renowned ‘grower’ producers. The estate is currently run by Rodolphe Péters, a sixth-generation grower who studied oenology and business before taking over the domaine in 2007. His father had involved him in the assemblage since 2000, so he could learn about the complexity of dealing with so many base wines. The fame of Pierre Péters has been derived from Rodolphe’s desire to build upon what he learned from his father, in both the winery and the vineyards. Every decision Rodolphe makes in the vineyards is aimed at allowing the grapes and site to speak for themselves. As a winemaker, he believes he has but a mere ‘supporting role’.

Pierre Péters own nearly 20 hectares of sustainably managed vineyards, divided into 82 plots. Of these, 16 hectares are in the Côte des Blancs and predominantly in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, where the domaine is based. Their other Côte des Blancs vineyards are in the Grand Cru villages of Avize, Cramant and Oger, as well as the 1er Cru village of Vertus. Despite the short distance separating these villages, each vineyard plot displays clear differences due to subtle variations in their chalk soils. From limestone to argile à silex (a specific mix of clay with flint), this patchwork of soil types creates different styles of base wines for Pierre Péters' champagnes. As a result, skilful blending is extremely important. The domaine also owns three hectares of vineyards near Sézanne and one in the Côte des Bars. Given their close relationship with the Côte des Blancs, it is unsurprising that Pierre Péters exclusively produce Blanc de Blancs champagnes, which are generally rated among the region's finest.

Rodolphe uses his education and experience to apply a light touch (or ‘minimal intervention’) in the winery. For example, he uses a pneumatic press to create gentle pressure and a steady flow, which naturally filters solid matter from the resulting juice. True to his belief that “a good winemaker must listen to his raw materials”, Rodolphe trusts the exceptional soils of the Côte des Blancs, specifically of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, to bring tension in his wines. His wines are fermented in stainless steel and remain in tank on their lees (with regular tastings) until assemblage. Reserve wines are sourced from a ‘perpetual reserve’ started on Rodolphe’s initiative in the late 1990s, based on the 1988, 1990, 1993 and 1996 harvests. These reserve wines are stored in a combination of large foudres, concrete, stainless steel, and cement vats, which give real diversity to the perpetual reserve. Every year, the reserve is blended with the base harvest (50/50) for the assemblage, before being put back into the various vessels until the following year.

The ‘Cuvée de Réserve’ is Pierre Péters’ signature wine and blends all their vineyards. It includes 50% reserve wines and ages for at least two years on its lees before disgorgement. The nose is powerful, first displaying saline and flint aromas, followed by white fruits. The palate has an elegant texture with vibrant notes of hazelnuts and fresh almonds. The ‘Extra Brut’ and ‘Grande Réserve’ are made using base wines from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Avize (comprising 75-80% of the blend) alongside a selection of the best reserve wines (20-25% of the blend). The ‘Extra Brut’ receives a dosage of two grammes per litre, whereas the ‘Grande Réserve’ receives five grammes per litre. The former has a floral character and offers a purer style of Blanc de Blancs, while the latter is more opulent and well-suited to food pairing.

The ‘Réserve Oubliée’ is made solely with reserve wines selected by Rodolphe from the best of his perpetual reserve. Exclusive to restaurants and hotels, this cuvée shows freshness and tension, which complements an evolved character derived from the age of Pierre Péters’ ‘perpetual reserve’. The ‘Les Montjolys’ single-vineyard cuvée is sourced from seven parcels within the only site in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger where argile à silex soil is found. These deep clay soils give ‘Les Montjolys’ its rich, smoky character and a rounded, creamy texture. Finally, ‘Les Chétillons’ is the domaine’s celebrated single vineyard cuvée, sourced from three parcels of old vines within the ‘Les Chétillons’ lieu-dit, on an east-northeast facing hillside in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The soil here is rich in limestone, producing powerful, long-lived wines that rank among the very best in the Côte des Blancs.