Domaine Rolet, `Tradition` Arbois Blanc

Founded in 1942 by Désiré Rolet, Domaine Rolet rose to prominence by acquiring prime parcels of old vines within the Jura region. The estate now owns over 65 hectares of vines, planted with Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. It is run by a dynamic, young team led by Cédric Ducoté, who took over the estate in 2018 with the view to striking a balance between tradition and modernity.

Head viticulturist Louis Morel spearheaded Domaine Rolet’s conversion to organic farming, with no herbicides or pesticides used in the vineyards. The vines stretch across multiple plots on steep hillsides, with each plot matched to the grape variety best suited to its unique soil and aspect. Light caterpillar tractors are used to prevent soil compaction, and harvest is undertaken by hand. This commitment to quality extends to the cellar, where winemaker Chloé Weber uses modern techniques to produce balanced, mineral-driven wines that reflect the best of the Jura.

Domaine Rolet’s Arbois Chardonnay is made in a Burgundian style, avoiding the oxidative approach traditional in the Jura. This is the case with all their Chardonnays. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine spends 18 months in 228-litre oak barrels, of which 30% are new. The wine displays an attractive flintiness on the nose and is an excellent example of a modern yet characteristic Jura Chardonnay. The ‘Tradition’ Arbois Blanc blends 50% Savagnin and 50% Chardonnay. The Savagnin in this blend is made in the traditional, oxidative Jura style; fermented in oak followed by four years of ageing under flor. The Chardonnay is again made with a non-oxidative, Burgundian approach, before also spending four years in oak foudres. Both wines are blended and left to marry for three months before bottling, creating a nutty, oxidative character lifted by fresh, mineral acidity.

Trousseau is a red grape variety indigenous to Jura, capable of making complex, deeply flavoured wines that rank among some of the region’s best. 50% of Domaine Rolet’s Trousseau is aged in barrels for added complexity, while the other 50% is kept in tank to retain freshness and purity of fruit. Despite its light colour, the wine is remarkably concentrated with a crunchy red fruit character.

Vin Jaune, also known as yellow wine due to its rich colour, is perhaps the most idiosyncratic wine of the Jura. Made from the Savagnin grape, Domaine Rolet’s Vin Jaune is aged extensively under flor for eight years, rather than just the six years required by Jura appellation law. This wine is exceptionally fresh and dry, with a distinctive nutty character and considerable ageing potential.