Bruno Rocca, Barbaresco Riserva `Rabajà`

Bruno Rocca took charge of the family business when his father died in 1978. Previously, Bruno worked at Ferrero Rocher in Alba, as the family farm could not support more than one family by selling its grapes. After taking over, he started bottling the wine and soon established a name for himself as one of the finest producers in Barbaresco, thanks in no small part to his vineyards on the prized hill of Rabajà. Today, Bruno runs the 15-hectare estate with his daughter, Luisa and son Francesco, with a total production of around 65,000 bottles.

Stylistically, Bruno is a consummate modernist, making wines of great fruit intensity that retain the structure and elegance of the Langhe at its best. The Langhe Rosato is 100% Nebbiolo Rosé, a grape variety related to Nebbiolo, which has lighter-coloured berries and is less fertile yet offers a rich aromatic. The resulting wine shows charming red fruit notes, lifted by a crisp freshness. The Barbera d‘Alba, sourced from 50-year-old vines, is complex and structured. The Langhe Nebbiolo hails from younger vines; grapes are macerated in stainless steel vats for up to 10 days to preserve the bouquet of fresh fruit.

Anyone who deems Barbaresco lighter and more ‘delicate’ than Barolo should try Bruno’s wines. Due to low yields from a fabled slope like Rabajà, his wines have a wonderful intensity and balance. The grapes for the Barbaresco hail from younger vineyards, some of which are on sandier soil, resulting in a more forward, perfumed wine. It is superb for drinking now. Two single vineyard wines hail from the ‘Rabajà’ and ‘Currà’ crus. They are approachable yet elegant and, while drinking well now, capable of ageing beautifully over the next decade.

The third cru is Marcorino: produced from old vines planted in 1963 using rootstocks recovered from an old vineyard in Bernino, it has more power and structure. The Barbaresco Riserva ‘Currà’ and Barbaresco Riserva ‘Rabajà’ are produced from a strict selection of grapes and matured in French oak casks for 24 - 36 months, then a further 24 months in bottle, before release. The ‘Maria Adelaide’ is made exclusively in the best vintages from a selection of their most outstanding vineyards. It is dedicated to Bruno’s mother, Maria Adelaide, who guided the family with her extensive knowledge of the Barbaresco vineyards and wines. Each is an ode to Nebbiolo, with Bruno Rocca’s signature elegance and finesse.