Massolino, Barbaresco `Albesani`

This 55-hectare estate has been in the Massolino family since 1896. Winemaker Franco Massolino has done a wonderful job of marrying change with respect for tradition, setting Massolino apart from many of the younger producers in Barolo today. The vineyards, with vines up to 60 years old, are in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba: the source of some of the greatest, most structured and longest-lived Barolos.

Their Barolo has an attractive aromatic dimension and is as good as Barolo gets at this price. The single vineyard ‘Parussi’, when tasted alongside the ‘Margheria’, is a study in the importance of site. The winemaking is the same, but the more restrained style of the ‘Parussi’ from Castiglione Falletto is contrasted against the aromatic yet layered and tannic style of the ‘Margheria’. Drink the ‘Parussi’ now and put the ‘Margheria’ in the cellar.

The ‘Parafada’, hailing from the estate’s oldest vineyard, is a bit more open, though similar to Serralunga in style with a unique depth and complexity. Massolino own 2.3 hectares of vines within the famed ‘Vigna Rionda’ MGA, where a marl-limestone mix of soils creates a Nebbiolo expression with an optimum balance of structure, aroma and finesse. Massolino’s Langhe Nebbiolo is more like a declassified Barolo compared to the youthful version from Vajra. The fruit is sourced exclusively from vineyards within the Barolo zone. Meanwhile, Franco’s Dolcetto d’Alba, fermented in stainless steel, perfectly expresses this bright, fresh and fruity varietal.

In 2019, the Massolino family fulfilled a long-held ambition to venture into Barbaresco. They now rent and manage plots in the famed MGAs of 'Starderi', 'Serraboella' and 'Albesani', in the village of Neive. The soil here is predominantly marly and calcareous, with some clay and sand, creating wines of exceptional balance and finesse. For the Barbaresco, fruit from all three MGAs is fermented in oak (“tini”), followed by ageing in large Slavonian oak casks for up to 18 months. The wine highlights the more refined character of this territory, expressing beautiful floral notes accompanied by hints of red fruits. The Barbaresco ‘Albesani' is made from a parcel of 60-year-old vines that lend themselves to a wine of notable structure and elegance. It has great ageing potential with complex and elegant aromas of red fruits and notes of tobacco and hay.