Maximin Grünhaus, Maximin

Maximin Grünhaus is a world-class Riesling specialist, based in the Ruwer district of the Mosel, with a viticulture history dating back to the Roman era. Located on steep, south-facing slopes, the estates' celebrated vineyards are divided into separate, but contiguous plots, including ‘Abtsberg’ and ‘Herrenberg’. Each has its own distinct microclimate, aspect and soil that lends itself to singular Riesling expressions.

The estate takes its current name from the Abbey of Saint Maximin, a Benedictine monastery which owned the land from the 7th to the 18th century. Passing first to the French administration under Napoleon, then to the von Schubert family in the late 19th century, the estate is now overseen by the family’s sixth-generation, Maximin Von Schubert, who took over from his father Carl in 2014.

Work in the vineyards is finely tuned with nature, with organic fertilisers and wild herb cover crops preferred to pesticides or herbicides. Grapes are harvested by hand in several passes to capture perfect ripeness levels across the vintage. Winemaker Stefan Kraml, who has been with the estate since 2004, focuses on expressing the character of Riesling from each plot. The cellar is minutes from the vineyards to ensure quick pressing after harvest, which retains aromatics. Depending on vintage conditions, grapes are destemmed or whole-bunch-pressed before clarification through natural settling. Stefan ferments using indigenous yeasts, in small stainless-steel tanks and classic large oak casks, made by local coopers using wood from the estate’s own forests.

The ‘Abtsberg’ vineyard is planted on 14 hectares of blue Devonian slate subsoil with a 75% incline. It is traditionally the most renowned of their sites, with the best parcels classified as ‘Grosse Lage’. Historically, the ‘Abtsberg’ wines were destined for their namesake, the abbot (‘abt’ in German) of the local monastery. Among Maximin Grünhaus’ finest wines are their dry Grosses Gewächs ‘Abtsberg’ Riesling and barely off-dry Superior Riesling, both characterised by a finely structured minerality, racy acidity and generous fruit, combined with a delicate texture. The Kabinett, conversely, has a refined, aromatic citrus profile, complemented by crisp texture and a touch of sweetness. The Pinot Noir from the ‘Abtsberg’ is subtly powerful, with a layered core of red berry notes and bright acidity complemented by clove spice from the oak.

The 19-hectare ‘Herrenberg’ vineyard is planted near the Grüneberg forest, offering a cooler site than the neighbouring ‘Abtsberg’. The Rieslings here, grown on red Devonian slate soils, were once regarded as second to those from ‘Abtsberg’. Yet with the shifting climate of recent years, the ‘Herrenberg’ vineyard has achieved distinction in its own right, creating Riesling expressions which age beautifully for decades. The dry Grosses Gewächs ‘Herrenberg’ Riesling is defined by a mineral salinity with hints of wet slate, lemon zest and dried herbs. The off-dry ‘Herrenberg’ Superior Mosel Riesling stands shoulder to shoulder to the Grosses Gewächs, with its 14.3 grammes per litre of residual sugar balanced by crisp acidity, giving the impression of an almost-dry wine. The naturally sweet and beautifully balanced Riesling Kabinett ‘Herrenberg’ is juicy and complex on the palate with a pronounced fruit centre. The late-harvest Spätlese from ‘Herrenberg’ has a creamy palate enlivened by nuances of white grapefruit, herbal spices and a tingling acidity. ‘Herrenberg’ is also the vineyard where the grapes for the Pinot Blanc Réserve are grown. Maturation in new Fuder barrels contributes lovely spice and rich structure to this wine that impresses with its distinctive character.

Maximin

Carefully sourced from vineyards in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, which share the estate’s ethos and exacting standards, the Maximin Mosel Riesling is an inviting wine made in the Grünhaus style and representing superb value. This wine has a charming lightness, with notes of citrus and fresh green apple and a lively, lifted finish.