Littorai, `Hirsch Vineyard` Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2023
| Vintage | Product Code | Format | Closure | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | LI303B23 | 6 x 75 | Natural Cork | Contact Us |
Producer
In 1992, Ted and Heidi Lemon travelled the length of the west coast of the United States looking for the best sites to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They finally found their spot in the ‘true’ north coast of California, the littoral (coastal) zones of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. At the time, this region was not known for premium viticulture. Still, Ted was convinced that the varied soils and moderate climate with cooling fog would provide the ideal environment to make elegant and site-specific expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Ted and Heidi have an incredible winemaking pedigree between them. Heidi honed her craft in the esteemed cellars of Domaine Chandon, Robert Pecota Winery, Robert Long Vineyards and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Meanwhile, Ted first studied winemaking at the University of Dijon in 1981, before carving out an impressive career in Burgundy. The estates he has worked for include Domaine Roulot, Domaine Georges Roumier, Domaine de Villaine and Domaine Dujac. When this duo decided to turn their attention jointly to California, it was inevitable that the results would be spectacular.
Today, the majority of the Littorai sites are farmed biodynamically, though the estate does not use certification systems. Having studied the works of Rudolf Steiner, who believed in individual responsibility, Ted finds it hard to reconcile the fact that becoming certified would involve conceding some of his responsibility to external auditors, who cannot know and understand the sites as he does. Their wines are made with minimal intervention to allow the site to shine through in the wines. In Ted’s own words, “there is little place for winemaking in our style of production.”
The single vineyard Chardonnays represent 15% of Littorai’s total production. Only the free-run juice is used, which then undergoes indigenous yeast fermentation and 12 months ageing in French oak barrels (20% new). These wines are rich and precise with mouth-watering acidity. The regional blend Pinot Noirs are produced from declassified single vineyard lots. The Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir displays complex floral and spiced notes and firm tannins. Meanwhile, the ‘Les Larmes’ is supple with fine-grained tannins and bright acidity to temper its juicy fruit core.
The single vineyard Pinot Noirs incorporate 25-40% whole bunch, depending on the site and vine age, and are matured for 15 months in French oak barrels (20-25% new). Planted in 2010, ‘Wendling Vineyard Block E’ is Littorai’s youngest site. Its steep, south-facing slope is protected, making the wine aromatically expressive. Planted at 150 metres above sea level, on a south-facing slope, the ‘Pivot’ vineyard surrounds the winery, and the resulting wine expresses this site’s trademark elegance and purity. The ‘Hirsch’ vineyard has aromatic complexity with layered notes of rose, orange zest and forest floor, countered by precise acidity. The 'Haven' vineyard is Littorai’s original estate vineyard, and Ted considers it one of his Grand Crus. Its diverse greenstone, sandstone and shale soils result in a poised wine with intense spice aromatics, vibrant acidity and finely structured tannins. ‘One Acre’ is Littorai’s highest-elevation vineyard at 488 metres above sea level. There is a richness on the palate with mouth-coating tannins balanced by taut acidity. The inaugural 2022 vintage of the 'Richardson Ranch' is the newest addition to the range, from a site planted in 2012. This is a charming, delicate Pinot Noir with bright red fruits and a savoury backbone.
Vineyards
Littorai is the longest-standing buyer of fruit from the Hirsch vineyard and is also responsible for converting the site to biodynamic farming. The site is a series of ridged hilltops, which run inland from the Pacific Ocean at 365 to 472 metres above sea level. This is San Andreas Fault territory, resulting in varied and complex soils.
Vintage
The 2023 Sonoma Coast season was unusually cool and delayed, with heavy winter rains pushing budbreak several weeks behind average and persistent spring marine layers slowing growth and reducing fruit set. Bloom arrived late and botrytis appeared in pockets, though Chardonnay remained generally clean. Warmer, drier weather in July improved canopy health, but veraison and ripening continued at a slow pace. A brief September rain caused minimal disruption, and harvest stretched from late September well into October, with some Pinot Noir parcels reaching maturity only in early November. Despite the challenges, the fruit showed purity, freshness and structure, with Chardonnay delivering particularly refined, classically coastal character.
Vinification
The grapes were harvested at night to arrive at the winery at 10–15 degrees Celsius, allowing fermenters to naturally rise in temperature for a gentle native yeast fermentation. Punch down and pump over techniques were employed in varying frequencies based on vintage characteristics and daily tastings. The wines were pressed at dryness without extended maceration, using stainless steel and wood fermenters with whole clusters comprising up to 50% of the fruit, particularly from older vines. The remaining fruit was de-stemmed but not crushed. The wines aged in 20–25% new French oak from Jacques Damy in Meursault for 14–17 months before bottling.
Tasting Notes & Technical Details
On the nose, there are notes of red apple, boysenberry, cherry blossom, wild strawberry, sarsaparilla, torrefaction, bacon fat, and earth. The palate is deep, dark and intriguingly complex, like peering into a stony, shadowed well. The attack is surprisingly supple for Hirsch. The tannins build gradually and dominate the long finish.
Alcohol (ABV)
13%