Littorai, `The Haven Vineyard` Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

In 1992, Ted and Heidi Lemon travelled the length of the west coast of the United States looking for the best sites to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They finally found their spot in the ‘true’ north coast of California, the littoral (coastal) zones of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. At the time, this region was not known for premium viticulture. Still, Ted was convinced that the varied soils and moderate climate with cooling fog would provide the ideal environment to make elegant and site-specific expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Ted and Heidi have an incredible winemaking pedigree between them. Heidi honed her craft in the esteemed cellars of Domaine Chandon, Robert Pecota Winery, Robert Long Vineyards and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Meanwhile, Ted first studied winemaking at the University of Dijon in 1981, before carving out an impressive career in Burgundy. The estates he has worked for include Domaine Roulot, Domaine Georges Roumier, Domaine de Villaine and Domaine Dujac. When this duo decided to turn their attention jointly to California, it was inevitable that the results would be spectacular.

Today, the majority of the Littorai sites are farmed biodynamically, though the estate does not use certification systems. Having studied the works of Rudolf Steiner, who believed in individual responsibility, Ted finds it hard to reconcile the fact that becoming certified would involve conceding some of his responsibility to external auditors, who cannot know and understand the sites as he does. Their wines are made with minimal intervention to allow the site to shine through in the wines. In Ted’s own words, “there is little place for winemaking in our style of production.”

The single vineyard Chardonnays represent 15% of Littorai’s total production. Only the free-run juice is used, which then undergoes indigenous yeast fermentation and 12 months ageing in French oak barrels (20% new). These wines are rich and precise with mouth-watering acidity. The regional blend Pinot Noirs are produced from declassified single vineyard lots. The Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir displays complex floral and spiced notes and firm tannins. Meanwhile, the ‘Les Larmes’ is supple with fine-grained tannins and bright acidity to temper its juicy fruit core.

The single vineyard Pinot Noirs incorporate 25-40% whole bunch, depending on the site and vine age, and are matured for 15 months in French oak barrels (20-25% new). Planted in 2010, ‘Wendling Vineyard Block E’ is Littorai’s youngest site. Its steep, south-facing slope is protected, making the wine aromatically expressive. Planted at 150 metres above sea level, on a south-facing slope, the ‘Pivot’ vineyard surrounds the winery, and the resulting wine expresses this site’s trademark elegance and purity. The ‘Hirsch’ vineyard has aromatic complexity with layered notes of rose, orange zest and forest floor, countered by precise acidity. The 'Haven' vineyard is Littorai’s original estate vineyard, and Ted considers it one of his Grand Crus. Its diverse greenstone, sandstone and shale soils result in a poised wine with intense spice aromatics, vibrant acidity and finely structured tannins. ‘One Acre’ is Littorai’s highest-elevation vineyard at 488 metres above sea level. There is a richness on the palate with mouth-coating tannins balanced by taut acidity. The inaugural 2022 vintage of the 'Richardson Ranch' is the newest addition to the range, from a site planted in 2012. This is a charming, delicate Pinot Noir with bright red fruits and a savoury backbone.