Justino's Madeira, Terrantez

Despite being one of Madeira’s oldest producers, with a history dating back to 1870, Justino’s is widely regarded as one of the island's most dynamic producers. They source fruit from all over Madeira, selecting grapes from only the best sites and vineyards. Traditionally, varieties like Sercial were grown in the cooler north of the island, while Malvasia and Boal were planted in the warmer south. Today, site selection and improvements in viticulture allow for more flexibility, meaning these varieties can thrive across Madeira, no longer confined to a specific area.

Justino’s modern winery, located in Cancela, Santa Cruz, was built in 1995. All their Madeiras are fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks to ensure pristine base wines. Fermentation is halted by adding 96% ABV neutral grape spirit at the optimum moment, which differs depending on the desired level of sweetness for each Madeira. All Justino’s wines, apart from the 5-Year-Old Fine Rich Reserve (which undergoes the ‘estufagem’ heating process), undergo the ‘canteiro’ ageing process, which involves being stored in barrels in the eaves of the Justino’s lodge, where they are gently heated naturally by the sun over extended periods.

Justino’s range showcases the quality and diversity that Madeira can offer. The Tinta Negra expressions are particularly sought after. The 5-year-old Fine Rich Reserve is fantastic value, with a quality far surpassing its price. The 1999 Colheita, made from Tinta Negra sourced from a single vintage, demonstrates the age-worthiness, complexity, and balance that this variety can achieve. The Madeiras made from the noble grapes, Sercial, Boal, Malvasia and Terrantez, perfectly exemplify the diversity of Madeira styles, from the relatively dry, crisp expressions to those which are more nutty, rich, and full.

We are privileged to have a small amount of 1978 Terrantez, a staggeringly complex wine with intense aromas of salted caramel, citrus peel, chopped nuts and honeycomb, balanced by a lovely zinginess. The 50-year-old Terrantez is also a DWWA ‘Best in Show’ Winner. Rich but refreshing, powerful yet elegant, it illustrates that Terrantez, though nearly extinct (only around two hectares exist today), is perhaps the finest noble Madeira grape.