Maximin Grünhaus, Single Vineyard, `Abtsberg` Grosses Gewächs Mosel Riesling

Maximin Grünhaus is a world-class Riesling specialist, based in the Ruwer district of the Mosel, with a viticultural history dating back to the Roman era. Located on steep, south-facing slopes, the estates' celebrated vineyards are divided into separate, but contiguous plots, including the famed ‘Abtsberg’ and ‘Herrenberg’. Each has its own distinct microclimate, aspect and soil that lends itself to singular expressions of Riesling.

The estate takes its current name from the Abbey of Saint Maximin, a Benedictine monastery which owned the land from the 7th to the 18th century. Passing first to the French administration under Napoleon, then to the von Schubert family in the late 19th century, the estate is now run by the family’s sixth-generation, Maximin Von Schubert, who took over from his father Carl in 2014.

Work in the vineyards is finely tuned with nature, with organic fertilisers and wild herb cover crops. Grapes are harvested by hand in several passes to capture perfect ripeness levels across the vintage. The cellar is minutes from the vineyards to ensure quick pressing after harvest, retaining aromatics. Depending on vintage conditions, grapes are destemmed or whole-bunch-pressed before clarification through natural settling. Maximin ferments using indigenous yeasts, in small stainless-steel tanks and traditional large oak casks, made by local coopers using wood from the estate’s own forests.

Single Vineyard

The wines in this collection are made using fruit grown in the remarkable ‘Abtsberg’ and ‘Herrenberg’ single vineyards.

The 14 -hectare ‘Abtsberg’ vineyard is planted on blue Devonian slate and has a 75% incline. It is traditionally the most renowned of their sites, with the best parcels classified as ‘Grosse Lage’. Historically, the ‘Abtsberg’ wines were destined for their namesake, the abbot (‘abt’ in German) of the local monastery. Among Maximin Grünhaus’ finest wines are their dry ‘Abtsberg’ Grosses Gewächs Riesling and just off-dry ‘Abtsberg’ Grosse Lage Superior Riesling, both characterised by a finely structured minerality, racy acidity and generous fruit. The Kabinett, conversely, has a refined, aromatic citrus profile, complemented by crisp texture and a touch of sweetness.

The 19-hectare ‘Herrenberg’ vineyard is planted near the Grüneberg forest, offering a cooler site than the neighbouring ‘Abtsberg’. The Rieslings here, grown on red Devonian slate soils, were once regarded as second to those from ‘Abtsberg’. Yet with the shifting climate of recent years, the ‘Herrenberg’ vineyard has achieved distinction in its own right, creating Rieslings which age beautifully for decades. The dry Grosses Gewächs ‘Herrenberg’ Riesling is defined by a mineral salinity with hints of wet slate, lemon zest and dried herbs. The off-dry ‘Herrenberg’ Superior Mosel Riesling stands shoulder to shoulder to the Grosses Gewächs, with its 14.3 grammes per litre of residual sugar balanced by crisp acidity, giving the impression of an almost-dry wine. The naturally sweet and beautifully balanced Riesling Kabinett ‘Herrenberg’ is juicy and complex on the palate. The late-harvest Spätlese from ‘Herrenberg’ has a creamy palate enlivened by nuances of white grapefruit, herbal spices and a tingling acidity. ‘Herrenberg’ is also the vineyard where the grapes for the Pinot Blanc Réserve are grown. Maturation in new Fuder barrels contributes lovely spice and rich structure to this wine that impresses with its distinctive character.

The ‘Grünhäuser’ Pinot Noir, from young vines in the ‘Abtsberg’ vineyard, is subtly powerful, with a layered core of red berry notes and bright acidity complemented by clove spice from 24 months ageing in barrique.